Warrabilla reserve Shiraz 2002 (review)

82 points

Rutherglen, Victoria. 16% (oddly it does not mention the region on the label)

Occasionally the central Victorian district of Rutherglen makes outstanding wines. Huge enormous wines, but tight with firm acidity. Like supercharged and underpriced Hermitage. I think Hugh Johnson or Andre Simon once described them as food wine and a good cigar all in one.

So every Rutherglen red I try I always hope..... and this says on the back label "the 2002 vintage was the highlight of 23 years of winemaking" - reflecting the wonderous cool long vintage.

The wine is dull but super dark (purple black), throwing considerable crust. Aromas of berries but quite closed. It's a solid rustic wine, pretty manufactured (but added acidity is to be expected in this region). It suffers from the major sin of being boring. Sigh, pity.