Chateau Patache d'Aux 1996 & 2000 (review)

88 points/ pnts

Medoc, Bordeaux, France.

This is near the bottom of the Bordeaux fine wine pyramid. One of the better cru bourgeois chateaux of the Medoc, that can be bought en primeur or pre-arrival in Australia for $25.

1996 was a good vintage for parts of the Medoc, and cabernet in particular. This wine has an unusually low proportion of Merlot in the blend (only 20% in 1996, 30% in 2000) with 70% cabernet sauvignon.

At almost 10 years of age this is drinking very well. Fully integrated oak. Soft yet reasonably flavoursome, with nice touches of leather and only the slightest oxidation. Everything I'd hope for in a wine at this price level. Savoury, food friendly.

2000 'perhaps the greatest vintage ever' is a slightly bigger wine (note the 13% alcohol on the label, personally I think the wine probably doesn't quite reach this level). There is a slight hard greenness (vegetal rather than herbaceous super green like old NZ cabernets) which makes me wonder if the 1996 is/was not the better wine.

Paired against the older wine this now smells of oak esters - marzipan and a touch of 'Frangelico' liqueur. It wouldn't smell like this without its partner wine alongside. Interesting, highlights the value of vertical tastings.

Having seen how gracefully the 1996 developed I'm much more upbeat about this 2000. Previously I'd thought it a bit dilute and green.

All in all, good quality humble fine Bordeaux. A contrast to the unbalanced power of most cheaper New World cabernets.