Pewsey Vale Riesling: 1998 vs 2004 (review)

I will start by stating that I am a fan of Pewsey Vale Rieslings. They offer a little more fruit up front than typical Clare Valley versions, and I have found that they are a little rounder and full. They are always reasonably priced, available almost everywhere, consistent in quality, and provide a great example of a limey, minerally or “wet slate” (borrowed from a colleague of mine) Riesling from this premier region.

On opening the Contours, the aged, brown, toast, smell filled the immediate space. On warning from an experienced colleague, I checked the cap for failure- a stain was present in the base of the cap. The brown toast and thick butter smell had collected in the cap. This did not seem affect the wine in a bad way.
In the glass, the wine held an attractive light gold with green hues. Its clarity was less than expected- I cannot put his down to either one of being not as clean in fermentation as a Riesling intended to be drunk on release, or the imperfect seal.
The nose was slick- brown toast and thick butter promised it would taste more like Allen’s Butterscotch than anything else I can recall. On the palate, the wine was very delicate- like it had got to the end of its developing years. Up front acidity was absent- a reminder is present on the crisp finish. Just holding together, the mouth feel was oily. Flavours of toast and honey, for me, dominated, and the finish was slick, softly warm and lengthy.
Overall, a middle weight aged wine, but great value for the asking price of around $25 retail(AUD). It is a great opportunity for those people who do not have the ability or desire to enjoy the fruits (or in this case toast, butter and honey) of cellaring wine.
The characters in this wine may be more suited to a male palate- I say this in that most of the large group of females who tried them along side each other thought there to be something wrong with the wine. My partner said that it reminded her of an aged Semillon- which she also finds undesirable.

The current vintage wine had the taste of a warm season- the acidity of previous vintages was down on my recollections, with a pleasant surprise. The bouquet was tight giving an abundance of soft lavender and rose perfume. There was also a hint of crunchy green apple. The robe showed mineral clarity with straw green/yellow hues.
The palate was crisp and tight, with a slightly course acidity that matched the floral nose, and slightly pungent (almost Gewurtztraminer-like) with medium length. The mineral nature of this wine was lower than I expected of the region. The lime flavours synonymous with the region were more evident in the mouth than on the palate (lime, and some lemon). For those that dislike overt Mineral/Petroleum characters of young Riesling, this wine may suit.
The female reaction to this wine in the group was far more positive than that of the aged version. My take is on this is the floral lift, and almost pungent finish that takes it closer to the currently in vogue- Sauvignon Blanc. It is reliable year to year. Its reasonable length, and user-friendly acidity will ensure that most of the group you are drinking with will enjoy. Priced at around $17(AUD)- it is a great buy when on discount, and high on my list when entertaining wine drinkers without a huge repertoire of experience.
-1998 Contours Museum Release 4/5
-2004 Eden Valley Riesling 4.5/5