Review Torbreck Woodcutter’s Red (Barossa Shiraz) 2002

nb The name changed in 2003 to Torbreck Barossa Shiraz

89 points

This is the bottom of the range Torbreck, around $18 to go with the Woodcutter’s White (Barossa Semillon around $16). The vines are mainly young vines grown from cuttings by Dave Powell from vineyards used in his top ranges like Factor and Runrig. There is some old material here too and all the vineyards are low yielding even if young. The wine has that bright fresh flavour of young vines and no oak, but its also savory, high in the umami ferments miso-like flavour. At first the wine is a bit strange, fruity, a bit of tannin, but not so sweet and sappy stave-in-tank oak flavour of other $15-$20 Barossa Shiraz. Think not Peter Lehman, nor Richmond Grove, Jacob’s Creek Reserve, even more towards the savory than d’Arenberg Original or Footbolt. After 30 minutes or so the Torbreck is still gaining intensity, a bit more complexity and losing some of the overt savoury character. This wine reminds me of the mid-lower Rhone, Gigondas, Vacqueras, Carianne.