Chenin Blanc - over looked ?
I've just noticed that two of the highest (if not the highest) rated wines on this web site are for Chenin Blanc based wines (one Australian and one French).
OK I gave the reviews so I shouldn't be surprised. But this is a varietal that I very very seldom drink. Who does drink chenin blanc regularly ? I don't think there is any doubt that it is one of the great grape varieties of the world, capable of producing fine wines with great longevity. But it seldom gets any attention. While that other (sauvignon) blanc's popularity just keeps growing. Odd.
posted by Byron Sharp @ 9:33 AM
1 Comments:
I think the reason Chenin is often overlooked is twofold. One, is merely happenstance; Chenin was not planted early in most of the new world wine growing areas (South Africa is an exception- see second reason below). The reason Riesling and Semillon are the two great white grapes of Australia has more to do with their planting early in Australia's wine growing history and now long experience with them, rather than the grapes' great affinity for Australia. In fact, I doubt if viticulturists were looking for the best whites for Australia today (with no history) that Riesling would be planted in Barossa and Clare Valleys.
The other reason Chenin Blanc is probably overlooked is that is not very adaptable. Chardonnay happens to be a very adaptable variety, making reasonable wines in many climates and conditions. Obviously, it only makes great wines under certain circumstances. This is not true for Riesling, Semillon, and Chenin. Of course all these varieties grow and produce under a wide range of conditions, it's just the the wine is often crap. Chenin is very susceptible to overcropping- it becomes tasteless and very high in alcohol, which is why it was planted so widely in South Africa- for brandy, not white wine production. The majority of Chenin in South africa is in hot dry areas. When the winemakers switched to table wines from brandy, their Chenin Blanc was (and from those areas still is) terrible. Chenin grown in the cooler areas of South Africa is fantastic, and the South Africans are running Chenin tastings all over the world to promote this variety.
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