Monday, June 06, 2005

Mills Reef Elspeth 2000 (review)

85 points.

Giblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand.

A strongly flavoured dark wine. Sort of bordeaux blend, but with Syrah too. Exotic nose, of ripe fruit, some almost floral notes, and warm good quality oak. Less enjoyable to drink though. They have striven for ripeness and flavour, to the point of having to add acidity. The wine is a bit hard, clumsy and contrived.

Flavoursome, yet even with food it isn't a delight.

I think many Kiwi winemakers are still struggling to find balance and finesse with the very ripe grapes that are now coming out of good NZ wine sites. Wine judges too are being easily seduced by young raw but ultra concentrated wines, they imagine potential that doesn't turn out.

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